Riding techique

I was looking at tires down at Don's Bike shop. Tires range in price from $15 dollars to $50+. Quite a range. Like most hobbies, I am sure, people tend to error on the expensive side and buy more than they need. But how would one go about assessing his/her tire needs? For myself, I don't race, I think the fastest I have had my bike is 35 and that was down a decent hill, I don't corner at that speed. Tread pattern does not seem important as there is little or none to start with. I generally do about 30 -80 miles per week depending on time. I am doing the 111 mile route in the Tour de Tucson in November.

I would think for a basic rider such as myself I would want a basic tire not too suseptable to flats, relitively soft ride, but still relitively low rolling resistance. I know some tires are specifically designed for puncture resistence but I hear these are hard riding.

I guess what I am asking is why would someone choose a $30 tire over a $15 tire?

Also, I notice tires rated by TPI. the Higher the TPI the higher the cost? What does TPI give you. I asked at the shop about that and he said its like sheets for your bed. The higher the thread cound the better the sheet. That did ot help a lot.

One more question, is it common to run diffent tires for different conditions for example, wake up one morning and there is a slight drizzle, so change your tires from the normal slick to something better for wet roads.

Anyway, any thoughts are appreciated.

Sorry, I meant for this to be in the Bike Mechanics Section. Mark, can you move it?

I stumbled on your post, so a quick comment....... I buy the less expensive tires because 99% of my tires are terminated by glass and glass doesn't have more partiality to either $20 or $50 tires. Vittoria are a sound and longer wearing tire and there are other good ones. TPI means 'threads per inch' and this affects the strength of a tire and the maximum pressure it can be inflated to and also a tire rolls a little smoother with higher thread count, with flexibility. Wire beaded tires are heavier and cheaper and harder to install on the rim than the more expensive non-wire kevlor or other bead type. I ride with wire bead tires and low thread count because I am slower, not a racer and am thrifty, and I will quickly throw away a tire with a significant glass cut. The tires we most often use are 700 x 23 or 25. The cheap (Nashbar etc)off brands are labeled 700 x 23 but I find they actually measure no more than 700 x 21 !

Thanks Russell,

That helps.

Russell points out the tire width.

CAn you put a 700 x 25 tire on the same rims as 700 x 23 or do the wider tires require a wider rim? I notice that the newer Cannondale Synapse use come with 700 x 25 where as mine came with 700 x 23.

We had 25s on Dianna's at one point and while they fit the rim, they required opening the brakes wider to mount the wheel to the bike.

Quoted Text

Russell points out the tire width.

CAn you put a 700 x 25 tire on the same rims as 700 x 23 or do the wider tires require a wider rim? I notice that the newer Cannondale Synapse use come with 700 x 25 where as mine came with 700 x 23.

Yes, absolutely! Usually, the only limiting factor as to what size tire a person can put on their bike is how much room there is in the frame (forks, seat stays, chain stays, etc). Personally, I have seen 700 x 28 tires on road bikes. Most modern frames only have enough room for 25's, yet there are still some that do have room for 28's.

To be honest, I'm not sure "they" even make a 700 rim that is specifically designed for wider tires.

So, what's the difference? Ride quality. If a person isn't interested in the absolute fastest time for a given route, a little wider tire, like a 25, is only a tad heavier and a LOT more comfortable on the rider. This is often enough to make a long and tiring ride doable; this is especially true for us older riders. ;-)

Plus, wider tires make great training tires too! I am currently using some 25's right now in my training for The Tour De Palm Springs century. I switched to them in late Nov and will use them on EVERY ride up until the P.S. century. When the day of that century comes, I will have my 700 x 23 Mich. Pro Race 3's mounted on some higher profile rims.

Hope this helps...


CUL8R!

Siegfried

Tire width entered this conversation and a tandem as I have, typically uses a 700 x 28 to sustain the added weight and maintain a more comfortable ride. 700 x 23 is the best all around road tire for a single rider bike. I used a 700 X 25 on a road bike , a Trek 5.9 that I used on doubles because I needed to ease up the ride firmness on the Madone 5.9 that road like a boxcar with the more normal 700 x 23 tires, so bigger width made a better ride. I sold the bike because it road so hard !

Ooops! Thank you Russell for the clarification. I didn't realize that I had not clearly stated that I was basically referring to "performance" road bikes until after I had posted it. Sorry 'bout that. :-( Upon further reflection, touring, tandem, commuter, cyclocross and plenty of other modern bicycles do have room for large tires. They generally are not what the majority of our club is riding, and is why I never thought to include them.


CUL8R!

Siegfried

My understanding, this from the mind af a newby in cycling, is that best effecifiency for rolling drag vs traction, vs road contact for a person such as myself, at 150 pounds, and the bike <20 on a 23 tire would call for about 110 psi in the rear and 100 in the front. If I were 200 lbs I would probably be closer t 130 psi in the rear which with many tires are limited to 120 psi. but if you go to a 25, you can lower the pressure. SO if I went to a 25 tire, I could lower the pressure, but I woudl think would give up rolling efficiency as I don't carry the weight, but it would probly be a gentiler ride on a rough road? Notice the question mark! I originally thought the higher pressure the better, but I belive that to be incorrect.

 

At any rate, I am thinking that at my size, I only need 110 psi max in 23 tires for max effciency, therefore do not need to spend extra money for tires that can handle more pressure.   Again, this is from the mind of anover simplified newby.

 

 

Right, at your weight you don't need the high pressure and harder ride. 110 front and back is fine. 110 back and even down to 100 or 90 in front front for comfort is fine. 100 front and back is fine if you are satisfied with the better ride feel. If you have a hard riding frame going to 700 x 25 with 100 rear and 90 front works well. Best to keep away from tires that are slick on the tread, especially in the rainy season.

I run 23s with 110 rear and 100 front. You weigh considerably less than I so you could go 100/90 and be fine.

How much less is that ? I am catching up with you this Holiday season !